Desert, gas fire and ancient cities
The Darvaza crater, ancient Merv and the white-marble capital.
Turkmenistan is one of the least-visited countries in Asia and one of the most surprising. The Karakum desert covers most of it; in the middle burns the Darvaza gas crater, a fire in the sand that has drawn travellers for decades. Around the edges lie the great ruined cities of the Silk Road: Merv, Kunya-Urgench and the Parthian fortresses of Nisa.
Travel here needs an invitation letter from a licensed local agency and a guide for most of the trip, which makes good planning essential. From our base in Khiva, the Shavat–Dashoguz border crossing is a short drive away, so Kunya-Urgench, Darvaza and Ashgabat fit naturally into an Uzbekistan journey.
Camp near a burning gas crater in the Karakum desert and watch it glow after dark.
Merv and Kunya-Urgench are among the most important archaeological sites in Central Asia.
A city of white marble and gold, unlike anywhere else.
Cross at Dashoguz and combine Turkmenistan with Khiva and Bukhara.
Top destinations
Tours
Ashgabat → Darvaza gas crater → Kunya-Urgench → Khiva → Bukhara → Samarkand → Seven Lakes (Haft Kul) → Tashkent → Margilan → Osh → Bishkek → Song-Kul → Issyk-Kul → Almaty
Khiva → Kunya-Urgench → Darvaza gas crater → Ashgabat → Ancient Merv → Bukhara
Season
Best months: April–May, September–October.
Ideal Good Challenging
Turkmen culture is rooted in the desert and the horse. The Akhal-Teke, with its metallic sheen, is a national symbol, and hand-knotted carpets with the red gul motifs of each tribe are still made. Hospitality follows desert tradition: tea, chorek bread and plov for guests. Photography of government buildings is restricted; your guide will advise.
The oasis of Merv was one of the largest cities in the world in the 12th century before the Mongol invasion. Nisa was an early capital of the Parthian Empire, and Kunya-Urgench was the capital of Khorezm, the same civilisation that built Khiva's predecessors across today's border. Turkmenistan became part of the Russian Empire and the USSR, and has been independent since 1991.
The Karakum ("black sand") covers most of the country. In the west, the colourful canyons of Yangykala and the Caspian coast; in the south, the Kopetdag mountains along the Iranian border.
Food
Rice with mutton and carrots, the centre of every celebration.
Torn bread, meat and onions in broth, a festive dish.
A meat pie baked in hot sand or a tandoor.
Round bread baked in a tamdyr oven.
A tourist visa requires a letter of invitation obtained through a licensed Turkmen tour agency, and tourists usually travel with a guide. Short transit visas are also possible but are less predictable. Allow several weeks for the paperwork and check current requirements before booking.
Travel is with a licensed guide and driver, usually by 4×4 for the desert. Darvaza is about four hours north of Ashgabat on the Ashgabat–Dashoguz road. Domestic flights link Ashgabat with Dashoguz, Mary and Turkmenbashi.
Travel guide
Yes, but officials have reported that the fire has weakened as nearby gas wells are capped. Conditions can change, so ask us for the latest when you plan your trip.
Tourist visas are issued through licensed agencies and normally require a guide for the itinerary. A transit visa allows independent travel for a few days but is harder to obtain.
The most convenient crossing for Khiva is Shavat–Dashoguz; from Bukhara it is Farap–Turkmenabat. Both are land borders crossed on foot between drivers.
Answer a few questions and a planner in Khiva will send a day-by-day route and a price. Free, with no obligation.
Darvaza Trip · Koshona street 75/1, Khiva, Uzbekistan · WhatsApp +998 91 920 94 20 · tours.uzbekistan@gmail.com · darvazatrip.com/destinations/turkmenistan/
